The fact that Algeria shares culinary traditions with Spain, Italy, and France is evident in many of its dishes, like this skabetch (which is quite similar in spirit to Spanish escabeche). The shrimp is pickled in a gently tangy spice mixture for a subtle play of flavors. Charmoula refers to the North African combination of ingredients in the marinade—though every country, town, and even family that makes charmoula creates its own special blend. Makes 4 (first course) servings Farid Zadi ingredients 1 lb large shrimp in shell (21 to 25 per lb), peeled, leaving tail fan attached, and deveined 3 large shallots, finely chopped (1 cup) 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 small leek (white and pale green parts only), finely chopped 1 garlic clove, minced 1 fresh serrano chile (optional), seeded and finely chopped 1/4 teaspoon sweet paprika 1/8 teaspoon smoked paprika (optional) 1/8 teaspoon turmeric 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice 2 teaspoons mild honey 2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley or cilantro preparation *Brush shrimp with olive oil and salt and pepper and grill until just cooked thru* Cook shrimp in a large pot of boiling water until just cooked through, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain and cool. Cook shallots in 2 tablespoons oil in a heavy medium skillet over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until very tender, about 8 minutes. Meanwhile, wash leek and pat dry. Add leek, garlic, and chile (if using) to shallots and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add paprikas and turmeric and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in lemon zest and juice, honey, parsley, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/4 cup oil. Toss shrimp with sauce in a glass or ceramic bowl and marinate, covered and chilled, at least 8 hours. Season with salt and serve in sauce. Cooks' note: Shrimp can be marinated up to 1 day. Add paprikas and turmeric and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in lemon zest and juice, honey, parsley, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and remaining 1/4 cup oil. Toss shrimp with sauce in a glass or ceramic bowl and marinate, covered and chilled, at least 8 hours. Season with salt and serve in sauce. Cooks' note: Shrimp can be marinated up to 1 day.